Matt Down Under

Route: Dixon’s Kingdom - Solomon’s Throne - The Temple - Solomon’s Jewels - Launceston

The night at Dixon’s Kingdom was very stormy. Strong winds and a lot of rain. I was lucky to have pitched my tent in a sheltered spot behind some bushes and pine trees.

I still wasn’t sure about what to do, but I had a feeling it would be my last day of the trip. I got up early, packed up all my equipment and moved it into the hut, just so I was prepared for any weather changes. I took a lot of time with breakfast and I decided to leave my large backpack in the hut, while going on a day walk to climb Solomon’s Throne and the Temple.

On my way there I saw plenty of wallabies grazing in the morning sun, it was still fairly early and the weather was great. From the hut it wasn’t far until Damascus Gate from where tracks start to Solomon’s Throne, and the Temple on the other side.

It took me only about 15 or 20 minutes to climb up Solomon’s Throne — the track was very well prepared, almost like climbing up a flight of stairs. From the top the view was gorgeous, you can see the Walls of Jerusalem Track winding from Lake Salome to Dixon’s Kingdom. Beautiful view. It was very windy and clouds were moving in quickly, but I wore my wind breaker and spend a while at the top exploring every corner.

Back down at the junction I decided to skip the Temple, it was so cloudy by then that the views would have been disappointing.

I walked back to Dixon’s Kingdom to get my backpack. There I met a few day walkers who came to climb up Mt Jerusalem. I also met my friend the wallaby again.

I grabbed my backpack and left Dixon’s Kingdom. I wanted to walk out on Walls of Jerusalem Track, but I wasn’t sure whether I would walk out to the car park or maybe stay at Wild Dog Creek or Trapper’s hut for another night. I left that decision open. The large group of day walkers I had met the day before had offered me a lift in their bus, but only for the following day.

Suddenly the weather turned awesome, when I arrived at Damascus Gate again, it looked so good and sunny that I spontaneously decided to leave my pack at the junction and climb up the Temple. I wouldn’t have wanted to miss that.

Again it only took about half an hour to climb up, and again the views were totally worth it. I took a lot of stunning panorama shots from Mt Moriah to the West Wall. I love this camera. The wind however almost blew me off the top, so I was glad when I climbed down into calmer regions again.

The track along the West Wall was boardwalk almost all the way. Very interesting vegetation, I liked it a lot. Sometimes I wish I knew the names of the plants, I should maybe buy a guide book some day. Past Lake Salome I walked through Herod’s Gate and found Wild Dog Creek campsite. It was a very well prepared campsite with quite a lot of tent platforms, water supply and toilets. People were encouraged to use it as the main (and only) campsite in Walls of Jerusalem National Park. Only a handful of tents had been there when I walked by.

From there the track crossed Solomon’s Jewels, a rocky area with plenty of tarns. It was really hot now, and no wind. I met heaps of people who were walking in. It was Tuesday, I didn’t want to imagine the number of visitors on a weekend.

By that time I was quite sure I would walk all the way down to the car park — I didn’t want to camp for another night. I was looking forward to a shower, a great meal and a comfortable bed. However I had no idea how to get to Launceston, I kind of liked the idea of simply walking out and trying to hitch a ride. Somehow, I was sure, I would get to Launceston, where I would spend the night at the Arthouse — my favourite hostel — before catching the bus back to Hobart.

Trapper’s hut looked surprisingly uninviting, with lots of mosquitoes around — all the huts in Walls of Jerusalem are not much more than historical mountain huts that today are merely emergency shelters. Never dare to expect a real bushwalker’s hut with all comfort like on the Overland Track, I can imagine a lot of people come to Walls of Jerusalem with false expectations.

On my way down to the car park I met a couple of people I had previously met at Pine Valley hut. Some professional-looking walkers from a Victorian bushwalking club and a whole family. They all had walked out from Pine Vally back to Lake St Clair, then drove to Walls of Jerusalem car park and now they walked in again from there. They thought I had done the same, they couldn’t believe I actually walked all the way from Pine Valley cross-country to Walls of Jerusalem. Suddenly I did feel professional.

I was at the car park around 3.30pm. Lots of cars there, but none was leaving. I had lunch and got changed. I put on my set of night clothes, it didn’t smell as bad as my day clothing — just in case I would hitch a ride in someone else’s car.

After lunch, and after preparing my gear, I simply walked down the forest road. I just assumed there would be plenty of cars passing by and one might take me to the next town.

Pretty big mistake.

I should have done more research of the area before deciding to walk out here. The car park is fairly remote in deep forest, the next town (Mole Creek?) some 40km away. But I wasn’t aware of that, so I walked on. Within the first two hours there were only four cars passing me, and only two were driving in my direction. Both were families and I didn’t want to bother them. I was hoping to find some forestry workers on their way home, but then it was probably already too late for the day.

Around 6pm and I got really tired. I was running out of water and my feet hurt terribly from walking on the hard gravel road. After all I had been walking some nine hours already.

I saw a car at the side of the road. It turned out to be some sort of camping area, with toilets, water tap and a bit of space to camp. There was a group of three young Canadians who were preparing their supplies for walking into Cradle Mountain National Park. I asked them how far it was to the next town, and they said it was at least 20km. Oh man! I was pretty shocked and my dreams of a nice meal, a shower and a comfortable bed were fading away. I realised, my place for the night would be this camping area. No one around who could take me to the nearest town.

We chatted for a while, they offered me tea and I was just about to set up my tent, when we heard a car coming in the distance. When we saw the car we all jumped up and waved with our hands, hoping they would see us and stop. They did stop, and I was running to the car, hoping they would not only be nice people, but able and willing to take me to the nearest town.

When I saw the sticker ‘Red Cross volunteer’ at the back of the car, I already had a feeling they would be the right kind of people. It was a young couple and it turned out they were both tour guides for Cradle Huts on the Overland Track, with a car full of hiking gear. And they were on their way to Launceston!! I just couldn’t believe my luck. They were very nice and happy to give me a ride. Absolutely amazing. Standing in the middle of nowhere in Mersey Forest, seeing only two cars in two hours, and then just at the right time finding nice people who would drive me from the middle of the forest all the way to Launceston. Unbelievable.

At 8pm I was in Launceston, and it was hot there. Everyone in shorts and t-shirt, me in fleece and hiking gear. The difference in temperature between the highlands and the cities on sea level is significant.

I turned on my phone and called the Arthouse. Shortly after I was there and received a warm welcome from Deb, one of the receptionists. I took a shower and then spent like $25 at McDonald’s. Great end to a great trip.

The next morning I jumped on the Tassielink bus to Hobart and by noon I was back home. I feel like I had a lot of luck again on this trip, with the weather, with injuries, I got to see everything I wanted, and especially towards the end everything worked out the way I wanted. Great trip.